Varenna to Volterra: Epic Road Trip Through Tuscany and Liguria

Beginning in Varenna on Lake Como, the first 10 kilometers of the drive hug the eastern shore along the SP72, passing the 14th-century Villa Monastero before merging onto the SS36 at the 44th parallel. This road, built atop a Roman consular route, transitions from alpine lake views to the Po Valley flatlands within 45 minutes.

The most surprising fact about this route is that near the town of Dervio (km 55), you cross the 9th-century boundary of the former Duchy of Milan—a political border that shaped local dialects still audible in roadside cafes. This drive is worth the effort for those seeking to how to find the best stops and hidden gems between cities.

The total drive covers 435 km and takes approximately 5 hours and 50 minutes of non-stop driving. Toll costs for the entire route amount to €26.80 (A4 from Sesto San Giovanni to Milan East: €3.20; A7 Milan-Genoa: €8.60; A12 Genoa-Rosignano: €9.50; SS1 to Volterra: toll-free). Fuel stations are plentiful along the A7 and A12, but sparse on the SS36 between Lecco and Milan.

• Fuel efficiency tip: The first 80 km (SS36) have gentle elevation gains, so maintain 90 km/h to save 15% fuel.
• Between Genoa and La Spezia, the A12 has steep gradients—downshift to maintain speed and avoid brake overheating.
• Best fuel stop: Agip at Vezzano Ligure (km 310) offers both diesel and LPG.

Road quality is excellent throughout: the A7 and A12 are well-maintained with modern lighting. However, the SS1 Aurelia from Rosignano to Volterra is a two-lane road with sharp curves and limited guardrails in some sections. Night driving is discouraged on the SS1 due to poor visibility and occasional livestock crossings.

• Family stop: The Acquario di Genova (exit Genova Nervi, km 145) is one of Europe's largest aquariums, perfect for kids.
• Fatigue management: Rest area "La Torretta" (km 190) has shaded parking and a small cafe for a quick nap.
• Hidden off-route spot: Church of San Pietro in Gattaiola (exit Lucca, km 350), an abandoned 12th-century chapel 5 minutes from the highway.

The geographical shift is dramatic: after the Po Valley (km 80-100), the route climbs into the Ligurian Apennines via the Giovi Pass (472 m), where oak forests give way to olive groves. The descent toward Genoa reveals the Mediterranean scrubland, characterized by aromatic herbs like rosemary and thyme growing wild along the roadside.

• Natural attractions: The Parco dell'Aveto (detour 15 km at km 200) features the 1,700-m Monte Penna with panoramic views.
• UNESCO sites: The Portovenere and Cinque Terre region (short detour at km 330) is a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1997.
• Local commerce: In the town of Pontremoli (km 260), the weekly Saturday market sells handmade marble sculptures and testaroli pasta.

Culinary infrastructure includes the Osteria del Borgo in Brugnato (km 290), serving pesto alla Genovese and farinata, and the Trattoria Da Rina in Rapallo (km 220) with fresh seafood. Pet-friendly stops: Sosta Cani at the Autogrill Villafranca (km 180) has a dedicated dog exercise area.