Introduction
Utah State Route 12 between Torrey and Hanksville is a 75-mile stretch that climbs from the red-rock Capitol Reef region into the remote San Rafael Swell. This section of the Scenic Byway 12 is less traveled than its southern half, yet it harbors some of Utah's most surreal geology: the domes and cliffs of Waterpocket Fold, the bentonite badlands of the Moon, and the wrinkled earth of the Swell. The road itself has no sharp curves for the first 25 miles, then descends into a vast, empty basin. You can complete the drive in just over an hour without stopping, but the real value lies in exploring side roads, trailheads, and viewpoints that most tourists rush past. For context, Torrey sits at 6,800 feet elevation, while Hanksville is at 4,300 feet, resulting in steady descent and warmer temperatures as you go east. This is the only paved route connecting Capitol Reef National Park to the Henry Mountains and the Colorado River. how to find the best stops and hidden gems between cities provides additional strategies for uncovering less-visited spots along this drive.
| Segment | Distance | Estimated Time |
|---|---|---|
| Torrey to Notom Road turnoff (Capitol Reef east side) | 10 mi | 15 min |
| Notom Road turnoff to Utah 24 junction | 40 mi | 45 min |
| Utah 24 junction to Hanksville | 25 mi | 30 min |
Route Logistics and Infrastructure
Fuel and Route Economics – Gas stations are scarce. Torrey has two options (including a Sinclair and a Chevron), and Hanksville has one station (Hanksville Trading Post). There is no fuel between them for 75 miles. Fill up in Torrey even if your tank isn't low. Diesel is available in Torrey but not in Hanksville. Prices in both towns are about 15-20% higher than in bigger cities like Richfield. If you're driving an electric vehicle, there are no public chargers between the two towns; the nearest Level 2 chargers are in Torrey (at Capitol Reef Resort) or in Green River, 75 miles east of Hanksville. For budget travelers, consider carrying extra water and snacks because the single store in Hanksville closes by 8 PM and has limited selection.
- Torrey: Sinclair station (fuel, groceries, ATM)
- Hanksville: Hollow Mountain Gas & Food (diesel only for pumps; no diesel station sign, but they sell it inside)
- No cell service for long stretches; download offline maps
Road Quality and Infrastructure Safety – Utah 24 between Torrey and Hanksville is a two-lane highway with a 65 mph speed limit. The pavement is generally excellent, but wind and sun can cause glare, and afternoon heat can create shimmering mirages. There are no guardrails on some sections but shoulders are wide. Wildlife, particularly deer and pronghorn, can appear near dawn and dusk. After the Notom turnoff, the road becomes arrow-straight for 25 miles across the flats – this can induce drowsiness. Rest areas: one unstaffed pullout with a vault toilet at the junction of Utah 24 and the Notom Road (milepost 87). Hanksville has a modern rest area with water and flush toilets at the west entrance of town.
- Watch for loose gravel on pullouts and side roads
- Winter ice patches possible; sand drifts in spring
- Low clearance vehicles fine on main road; high clearance recommended for Notom Road
Natural Landscapes and Local Commerce
UNESCO World Heritage Sites – While this exact route does not pass through any UNESCO sites, it borders Capitol Reef National Park, which is part of a tentative UNESCO listing. Capitol Reef boasts the Waterpocket Fold, a 100-mile long wrinkle in the earth's crust. Visitors can view its eastern flank from the Notom Road. The park itself is one of the least visited in the United States, making it a haven for solitude seekers. If you're interested in UNESCO heritage, the nearby Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument (though not a UNESCO site) is geologically significant and contains dinosaur fossils. For more on the region's geological significance, see how to find the best stops and hidden gems between cities.
- Capitol Reef: known for its domes and canyons
- Waterpocket Fold: visible from Notom Road
- Bentonite Hills: colorful clay badlands near Hanksville
Natural Landscapes & Attractions – The landscape shifts dramatically. Starting in Torrey, you drive past orchards and green fields irrigated by the Fremont River. After the park boundary, the road enters a narrow canyon of red sandstone cliffs. At the Notom junction, the scene opens into a vast desert valley with the Henry Mountains to the east. The Bentonite Hills near Hanksville are otherworldly: rounded hills of gray, green, and ochre clay. Moon Overlook, off a short dirt road, provides a panoramic view of the San Rafael Swell. For a half-day detour, the Burr Trail (gravel) winds through the Waterpocket Fold. Things to do between Torrey and Hanksville include hiking to Cassidy Arch in Capitol Reef, photographing the petrified wood along the road, and visiting the tiny ghost town of Hanksville with its historic Mormon settlement.
- Cassidy Arch: 3-mile round trip hike
- Moon Overlook: 2-mile gravel road, suitable for most cars
- Burr Trail: 66-mile dirt road, need high clearance
Local Commerce & Culture – Torrey has a few restaurants and art galleries, while Hanksville is a true frontier town with a trading post, a motel, and a diner. The Hanksville Trading Post sells souvenirs, fishing licenses, and offers a small museum of local artifacts. Friday nights in summer, the town often hosts a community barbecue. If you time your trip during the annual Hanksville Festival in July, you'll experience a rodeo and potluck. For a taste of local cuisine, try the pie at the Capitol Reef Inn & Café in Torrey – they make fruit pies from local orchards. There is no fast food anywhere along the route; the only full-service restaurant between the two towns is the Sunglow Cafe in Torrey (closed Sundays).
- Torrey: Capitol Reef Inn & Café, Sunglow Cafe
- Hanksville: Hanksville Trading Post (diner inside)
- Art galleries in Torrey: one features local landscapes
Road Safety, Family Stops, and Fatigue Management
Fatigue Management & Rest Zones – Long, straight sections on Utah 24 can cause highway hypnosis. Plan to stop every 30-45 minutes. There are only three formal rest areas: the rest stop at the Notom junction (portable toilet, no shade), a picnic area at the Hanksville town park (tables, restroom), and the Capitol Reef Visitor Center (just west of Torrey). For a more scenic break, pull into the Fremont Indian State Park's small interpretive pullout (no fees). If you're feeling drowsy, the best strategy is to take a short walk at any historical marker – the one marking the Old Spanish Trail at milepost 90 has a bench under a juniper. Coffee and caffeine can be found at the Sunglow Cafe in Torrey; bring your own if leaving early.
- Rest stop at Notom junction (milepost 87): vault toilet, no water
- Hanksville rest area: flush toilets, water, picnic tables
- Sunset Point pullout (milepost 95): photogenic view, no facilities
Family and Child Suitability – The route is child-friendly if you stop frequently. Capitol Reef offers short, easy trails like the Goosenecks Trail (0.5 mile) and the Hickman Natural Bridge (2 miles round trip). The Bentonite Hills are brightly colored and make for fun photo ops. However, there are no playgrounds along the way. Bring plenty of water and snacks, as facilities are limited. The road itself is safe, but advise children against playing near sun-heated rocks in summer. For a mid-drive activity, have kids count the different rock colors (red, white, gray, green). The geology is a natural classroom; consider downloading a guide to the Waterpocket Fold.
- Hickman Natural Bridge: easy hike for all ages
- Bentonite Hills: no hike needed, view from roadside
- Petrified wood: look but don't take; it's illegal
Pet-Friendly Framework – Pets are allowed on leash in Capitol Reef National Park, but only on established roads and parking areas; they are not allowed on any hiking trails or in the backcountry. Along the highway, pets can stretch at rest stops but beware of hot pavement and cactus. There are no designated pet-relief areas. Bring a portable water bowl, as water sources are unreliable. The only pet-friendly lodging in Torrey is the Broken Spur Inn (pet fee $20); in Hanksville, the Whispering Sands Motel accepts pets ($15 fee). During summer, never leave pets alone in a parked car; temperatures inside can exceed 120°F.
- Leash required at all stops within park boundaries
- No dog waste bags provided; bring your own
- Cool morning or evening walks safest
Hidden Off-Route Spots – Most tourists stay on the main road, but the real gems require a short detour. The Burr Trail switchbacks (east of notom) are a spectacular set of paved curves cut into the fold, leading to the Bullfrog Marina on Lake Powell. Another hidden spot is the Singing Canyon, a short slot canyon with acoustic properties, located just off Utah 24 at milepost 89 (look for a pullout). For a glimpse of the Old Spanish Trail, a historic trade route, take the dirt road at milepost 92 for about a mile – you'll find wagon ruts still visible. Finally, if you have a high-clearance vehicle, the Flint Trail offers a descent into the San Rafael Swell. Always check conditions with the BLM office in Hanksville before heading into the backcountry.
- Burr Trail switchbacks: 5 miles east of Notom junction
- Singing Canyon: unmarked, near milepost 89
- Old Spanish Trail ruts: milepost 92, dirt road
Climatic Conditions & Route Aesthetics – Weather varies dramatically by season. Spring (March-May) brings wildflowers and moderate temperatures (50-75°F). Summer (June-August) can exceed 100°F; start early to avoid heat. Autumn (September-November) is ideal with clear skies and golden cottonwoods. Winter (December-February) sees occasional snow, but the road is plowed; ice patches possible at dawn. The aesthetics change: spring has green washes, summer shows stark red rock against blue sky, fall offers contrasting leaf colors, and winter dusts the badlands with snow – a rare sight. The best light for photography is early morning or late afternoon.
- Temperature range: 20°F winter to 105°F summer
- Flash flood risk July-September: avoid slot canyons
- Sunset colors best at the Bentonite Hills
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Frequently Asked Questions
How long does it take to drive from Torrey to Hanksville?
The 75-mile drive on Utah 24 typically takes about 1 hour and 15 minutes without stops. With stops for sightseeing, plan for 2-3 hours.
What is the best time of year to drive this route?
Spring (April-May) and fall (September-October) offer mild weather and pleasant driving conditions. Summer can be extremely hot, and winter may have ice patches.
Are there gas stations between Torrey and Hanksville?
No, there are no gas stations along the 75-mile stretch. Fill up in Torrey or Hanksville before departing.
What are the must-see stops between Torrey and Hanksville?
Key stops include Capitol Reef National Park (east side via Notom Road), the Bentonite Hills near Hanksville, Moon Overlook, and the Burr Trail switchbacks.
Is it worth driving from Torrey to Hanksville?
Absolutely. The route offers stunning and varied landscapes, from red rock canyons to colorful badlands, plus access to Capitol Reef and the San Rafael Swell.
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