Thermopolis to Afton Drive: Hot Springs to Alpine Vistas

This 180-mile journey along US-20/US-26 and US-189 spans three distinct geological provinces: the Bighorn Basin, the Wind River Canyon (carved by the Wind River through the Owl Creek Mountains), and the Wyoming Range, which rises to over 11,000 feet. The road is a textbook of geologic time, with 2.9-billion-year-old granite in the canyon and younger sedimentary layers farther west.

Drivers traverse the route that pioneers used via the Oregon Trail, following the North Platte River's corridor for the first 50 miles. The route culminates in Afton, a town nestled in Star Valley, known for its world's largest elk antler arch, a 60-foot-wide structure made of over 3,000 antlers.

The Wind River Canyon is the route's geological highlight, with walls up to 2,500 feet high. The highway follows the river for 10 miles, offering views of the Wind River Indian Reservation (Eastern Shoshone and Northern Arapaho). Stop at the overlook at milepost 90 for a key view of the canyon.

West of Dubois, the landscape opens into the Wind River Valley, with the Absaroka Range to the north and the Wind River Mountains to the south. This area supports cattle ranches and several small eateries, like the Rustic Pine Tavern in Dubois, known for its burgers and local beer.

Local culture includes the National Outdoor Leadership School (NOLS) in Lander, a center for wilderness education, and the Mormon Pioneer Historic Trail through Star Valley, settled by Latter-day Saints in the 1880s. Afton's visitor center houses the elk antler arch and offers local craft goods.

Road quality varies: the first 70 miles are smooth, with occasional potholes; the last 60 miles over Salt River Pass have a consistent road. Wildlife (deer, elk, moose) is common near dawn and dusk—use extra caution on stretches with 'watch for wildlife' signs.

Fatigue management: plan stops every 90–120 minutes. Key rest zones include the Thermopolis Hot Springs State Park (has picnic areas), the Wind River Canyon overlooks (views but no services), and the Bondurant General Store (limited hours).

For families, Hot Springs State Park offers a free state-run bathhouse with mineral pools (pay for the water park). The National Museum of the American West is engaging with kids. Pet-friendly stops: the park has a designated pet area, and the canyon overlooks are leash-friendly. Afton's visitor center allows leashed pets on the lawn.

Hidden gems just off the route: the Olsen Ranch in Dubois (check schedule for tours), and the Brooks Lake Lodge, 14 miles off US-26 on a gravel road, offering a lakeside lunch. For finding these tucked-away spots, learn how to find the best stops and hidden gems between cities.

US-20 and US-26 are two-lane highways for most of the route, with passing lanes on steep grades. Wind River Canyon includes a narrow, winding section with several tunnels—be alert for falling rocks. The road is well-maintained, but winter conditions (November to March) can bring ice and closure at Togwotee Pass, though that's a detour.

Fuel stops are sparse: Thermopolis (76.3 mi from Dubois) has two gas stations; Dubois (mile 47) has three; the next reliable fuel is in Lander (off-route) or after 90 miles in Bondurant, which has a general store. Afton has multiple gas stations. Plan to fill up when you can.

• Thermopolis: Hot Springs State Park, $10 day use
• Dubois: National Museum of the American West (free)
• Wind River Canyon: Scenic pullouts, no admission
• Lander: Feed a llama at the Lander Llama Company (optional)
• Pinedale: Museum of the Mountain Man (admission $8)
• Star Valley: Alpine cheese shop