Phnom Penh to Kampong Chhnang: Road Trip Guide

The road from Phnom Penh to Kampong Chhnang follows National Road 5 (NR5), a flat and straight ribbon of asphalt built atop an old Khmer Rouge-era railbed. This 91-kilometer corridor finishes at the banks of the Tonlé Sap River, where the town’s iconic floating villages begin.

For most travelers, the journey takes roughly two hours by car, though the route’s real appeal lies in its quiet countryside and riverine culture. It is worth driving Phnom Penh to Kampong Chhnang for the region's authentic pottery villages and lotus farms, which few tourists see.

Below, we break down the essential logistics, hidden gems, and practical pointers to help you plan your own drive.

The flat rice paddies and sugar palm groves south of Kampong Chhnang give way to a mosaic of lotus farms and fish ponds near the river. These farms harvest both lotus seeds and roots, which are sold in local markets and exported to Vietnam.

About 15 km before Kampong Chhnang, look for the village of Phsar Dek (literally “iron market”) on your right; its name hints at the area's history as a blacksmithing hub, though today it's better known for its grilled chicken stalls that line the highway.

Kampong Chhnang's real draw is its pottery—the town is named “port of pottery” in Khmer. Workshops in the villages of Andong Russey and Kompong Tralach produce large terracotta jars using techniques passed down for generations. You can watch the potters work and buy directly, with prices starting at a few dollars.

Just across the river from the town center is the floating village of Chong Koh, accessible by a short boat ride. Here you'll see stilted houses, fish farms, and a school that floats on pontoons—a glimpse into a way of life tied to the river's pulse.

Also along the riverbanks, you'll find clusters of seafood restaurants serving fresh fried fish and river prawns, especially around sunset when the view over the water is at its best.

How long to drive Phnom Penh to Kampong Chhnang? Under normal traffic, expect a 2-hour drive, but you'll want to add time for fuel stops, snacks, and sightseeing. NR5 is one of Cambodia's busiest corridors, carrying trucks and buses heading to the northwest; drive defensively.

• Fuel: Full-service stations are plentiful in the first 30 km out of Phnom Penh, but become sparse closer to Kampong Chhnang. Fill up in the capital or in the town of Prek Kdam, about 25 km in.
• Toll: No tolls on NR5; the only cost is fuel (roughly $8–10 total for a typical sedan).
• Road Quality: Mostly smooth asphalt with occasional potholes, especially near bridge approaches. The road narrows near market towns, where you'll share it with motos, bicycles, and livestock.
• Restrooms: Clean public restrooms are rare; use facilities at larger restaurants or gas stations.

For navigation, Google Maps works reliably, but offline maps are recommended as data coverage can drop in rural stretches. Traffic congestion is worst during Khmer New Year (April) and Pchum Ben (September/October), so plan accordingly.

Tourist police are stationed in Kampong Chhnang, but their presence on the road is intermittent; keep a copy of your passport and driving permit at hand.

NR5 is in moderate condition, but you'll encounter frequent overtaking of slow trucks, which makes passing hazardous. Stick to a steady 70–80 km/h and use headlights even during the day to improve visibility. The dry season (November–February) offers the clearest skies and the most comfortable driving conditions, while the rainy season (May–October) can bring flooding on low-lying sections.

For families, the route is suitable for children aged 5 and up; there are no major attractions on the way, but the novelty of the countryside and the occasional water buffalo sighting can keep them engaged. If you have younger kids, plan for extra stops to let them run in the grass.

For pet owners, keep in mind that most restaurants and temples do not allow pets; your best bet is to keep your furry companion in the car with you during brief comfort stops. There is no dedicated pet-friendly infrastructure along the way.

To manage fatigue, plan to stop every 45–60 minutes. The best rest zones are the roadside fruit stands and coffee shops that appear roughly every 10 km between the 30 km and 60 km markers. They offer fresh coconut water, iced coffee, and a chance to stretch your legs.

One hidden gem is the crumbling French-era railway bridge at Km 45, which is now used by pedestrians and motos—a popular spot for photographers at golden hour. Also, shortly before Kampong Chhnang, turn left onto a dirt track at the sign for Prek Ta Taot to find a quiet lotus pond rarely visited by tourists.

Above all, the drive is a microcosm of Cambodia's changing landscape, where ancient crafts meet modern highways. For more tips on how to find the best stops and hidden gems between cities, consult this guide.