Merano to Varenna Road Trip: Alpine Lakes & Passes

This 120-kilometer route from Merano to Varenna follows the SS38 south through the Val Venosta, then climbs over the Passo del Tonale (1,883 m) before descending into Valtellina along SS36 to Lake Como. The drive takes roughly 2 hours and 30 minutes without stops, but the scenic pull-offs and alpine switchbacks invite lingering.

Merano sits in a sunny basin at 325 m elevation, while Varenna hugs the eastern shore of Lake Como at 220 m. The route crosses three distinct climatic zones: Mediterranean-like valleys, alpine highlands, and lake-moderated shores. This diversity makes it one of the most varied drives in northern Italy.

A local driving quirk: the SS38 between Merano and Spondigna features several single-lane tunnels with traffic lights—locals call them "finisterre" because of their narrow, cave-like appearance. Plan for a 5-minute delay during peak summer hours.

The route transitions from Merano's palm-lined promenades to the stark, glacier-carved valley of Val di Sole. At km 45, the view of the Ortles-Cevedale massif (3,905 m) is breathtaking. Descending into Valtellina, you encounter terraced vineyards producing the robust Nebbiolo-based Sforzato wine.

UNESCO World Heritage sites: The nearby Rhaetian Railways (Bernina and Albula lines) are within a 30-minute detour from Tirano (km 80). Also, the Crespi d'Adda workers' village is a 1-hour drive south of Varenna, but not directly on route.

• Merano: Farmer's market on Wednesdays, buy Schüttelbrot crispbread and South Tyrolean apples.
• Passo del Tonale: Ski resort in winter, summer hiking. Rest stop with panoramic terrace.
• Valtellina: Stay on SS38 for bresaola and pizzoccheri pasta. Roadside stalls sell local cheese like Bitto and Casera.
• Varenna: Waterfront restaurants serve perch from the lake. Buy silk scarves from Como workshops.

For a deeper dive into finding such offbeat stops, see how to find the best stops and hidden gems between cities.

The SS38 and SS36 are state roads (no tolls), in good condition with two lanes for most of the route. The only toll section is a short optional stretch of the A4 near Bergamo, which is not needed for this journey. Fuel stations are sparse on the Passo del Tonale stretch, so fill up in Merano or at the AGIP station in Glorenza (km 15).

Estimated fuel cost for a standard petrol car: €25-30 (based on €1.80/L, 8 L/100 km). Diesel is about €1.70/L, costing €22-27. The mountain climb increases consumption by 15-20%—upshift early on sharp inclines to save fuel. For electric vehicles, charging points exist in Merano, Bormio (15 km detour), and Edolo.

Night driving on the SS36 is safe due to good illumination, but the SS38 mountain section has no streetlights—use high beams and watch for wildlife (deer, foxes) near the Stelvio National Park boundary. The Passo del Tonale is open year-round except during extreme snowstorms (closures rare, but check weather).

The SS38 has tight curves and variable surface quality—some asphalt patches from the 1990s near Cles (km 55) cause uneven grip. Rain reduces traction; take hairpins at 40 km/h. The SS36 is wider and smoother, but traffic increases near Colico. Always keep headlights on even in daytime.

Family and child suitability: The glider park at Passo del Tonale (playground and zip line) is a 20-minute break ideal for kids. In Valtellina, the Museo del Bitto in Bormio offers cheese-making workshops for children.

Pet-friendly stops: The hiking trail around Lago di Tovel (15 km detour from km 50) allows leash-free dogs in certain sections. Cafés in Spondigna (km 10) have water bowls outside.

Fatigue management: Ideal rest points are the parking area at Lago di Pian Palù (km 40, with picnic tables) and the Autogrill Edolo (km 85, with a nap room and coffee). If drowsy, pull into the Spiazzo rest area (km 60) which has 24/7 lighting and patrol.

Hidden off-route spots: Five minutes off the SS38 near Glorenza lies the small village of Burgusio, home to the Marienberg Abbey (11th century), with Romanesque frescoes and an herbal liqueur shop. Also, the abandoned watchtower of Cima Bianca (km 35) is visible from the road but accessible via a short, steep trail.