From Matera to Krems an der Donau: A Road Trip Across Europe

Matera, the European Capital of Culture 2019, sits carved into a ravine in Basilicata. Its Sassi districts are a UNESCO World Heritage site, a labyrinth of ancient cave dwellings. Driving north to Krems an der Donau in Austria—a charming town in the Wachau Valley—you'll cover approximately 1200 km. The route winds through the Apennines, the Po Valley, the Alps, and finally the Danube. Expect 12–14 hours of pure driving, but plan for two full days to absorb the highlights. The recommended path is A14/E55 from Matera to Bologna, then A22/E45 through the Brenner Pass to Innsbruck, then A12/E60 to Salzburg and A1 to Krems.

A quirky local driving fact: near Verona, the A22 has a section where the speed limit drops from 130 to 110 km/h for a tunnel, but nearly no one obeys. Locals flash lights to signal police radars. This road trip tests patience and alertness, but rewards with diverse landscapes—from the dusty white limestone gravine of Matera to the terraced vineyards of the Wachau. The how to find the best stops and hidden gems between cities article can help you plan detours off the main highways.

The route primarily uses toll motorways: A14 (Autostrada Adriatica) from Matera to Bologna, A22 (Autostrada del Brennero) through the Alps, and A1 in Austria. Total toll cost for a standard car is approximately €70–€90, depending on exact entry/exit points. Fuel consumption for a medium-sized car (6–7 L/100 km) means about 72–84 liters of fuel, costing around €90–€110 at current Italian and Austrian prices (€1.50–€1.80/L). Austria requires a vignette for motorways (€10 for 10 days, available at border shops).

Plan fuel stops: after Matera, fill up at a station near Bari (SS96). Then, after Bologna (before Verona), and again near Innsbruck. In Austria, fuel is cheaper than Italy, so consider crossing with a near empty tank. For electric vehicles, fast chargers exist at most autogrill on A14 and A22; plan a 30-minute stop every 200 km. Important: the Brenner Pass has steep gradients; check brake and tire conditions before the climb.

Key Roads and Timings

Total driving time: 12–14 hours, plus stops. Best to overnight near Verona or Innsbruck.

The first natural highlight is the Murgia Materana, a rocky plateau dotted with cave churches and wildflowers. Drive the SP36 from Matera to see the canyon from above. As you head north, the Apennines offer views of rolling hills and old castles. Near Bologna, the landscape flattens into the Po Valley, known for its endless agricultural fields—but skip the highway for a detour to Modena for balsamic vinegar or Parmigiano-Reggiano.

Crossing the Alps via the Brenner Pass, you'll see dramatic peaks and valleys; the A22 runs along the Isarco river. At the Austrian border, the Wipptal valley opens to the Stubai Alps. Stop at Brenner village for speck sandwiches and mountain views. Approaching Krems, the Wachau Valley is a UNESCO cultural landscape of terraced vineyards, apricot orchards, and medieval ruins. The Dürnstein castle, where Richard the Lionheart was imprisoned, overlooks the Danube.

Local commerce along the route: Matera's ceramics (try the workshops in Sassi), Emilia-Romagna's food products (culatello, parmesan), South Tyrol's apples (buy at autogrill near Bolzano), and Austrian wines (Grüner Veltliner from Wachau). For souvenirs, stop at the Christmas market in Brixen (if winter) or the artisan market at Retz (near Krems).

UNESCO World Heritage sites encountered: Sassi di Matera (Italy), the old town of Verona (Italy, just off A22), the Wachau Cultural Landscape (Austria). Optional detour: the historic center of Salzburg (45 minutes off route). These sites are best visited with a planned stay, not just a quick photo. Consider an extra day in Verona to see the Arena and Juliet's balcony.

Road quality is excellent on main motorways. However, the A14 has narrow tunnels and heavy truck traffic between Ancona and Rimini. The A22 has dramatic elevation changes; use engine braking on descents to save brakes. Austria's A1 is smooth but can have sudden speed limits near construction. Safety cameras are frequent in Italy and Austria; use a radar detector (but be aware of local laws—in Austria they are illegal). Enforcement of speed limits is strict, especially in the Brenner region.

For families: kids will enjoy the Oltremare park near Riccione (exit A14 at Rimini Sud), the Minilando indoor playground near Verona, and the Swarovski Crystal Worlds at Wattens (exit A12 at Hall in Tirol). Pet-friendly stops: the Autogrill in Italy often welcome dogs on leash; in Austria, the Raststation A1 at St. Pölten has a dog walking area. Many hotels along the route offer pet-friendly rooms, especially in South Tyrol and the Wachau.

Fatigue management: schedule a break every 2 hours. Ideal rests: the Autogrill “Serravalle” on A14 near Pescara (has a playground and panorama), the “Brenner” rest area at the border (dining with mountain views), and the “Wachau” rest stop on A1 near Melk (small garden). Tip: park facing away from the sun during afternoon driving to reduce glare. Use a collapsible cup for coffee; many Autogrill have vending machines with decent espresso.

Hidden off-route spots: just east of the A14 near Ascoli Piceno is the old town of Grottammare with a blue-flag beach; the A22 exit at Klausen leads to the botanical gardens of Trauttmansdorff Castle; near Krems, the Göttweig Abbey (monastery with panoramic terrace) is 10 minutes off the A1. These added stops enrich the journey without major detours.

Culinary infrastructure: the Autogrill chain offers pasta, pizza, and salads; in Austria, Raststation serves schnitzel and strudel. For better quality, exit at towns: in Italy, try “Osteria del Gallo” near Modena (off A1), or “Gasthof zum Goldenen Adler” in Gossensaß (just off A22). In Austria, “Gasthof zur Post” in Spitz (in Wachau). Vegetarian options are limited in Autogrill but abundant in city exits.