La Spezia to Volterra: Road Trip Guide

The stretch of the SS1 Aurelia from La Spezia to Volterra is one of the most underrated drives in Tuscany. Unlike the crowded A12, this two-lane road offers a genuine taste of Italian coastal and hilltop life. Historically, the Via Aurelia was a Roman consular road built in 241 BC, connecting Rome to the French border. Today, it winds past marble quarries and olive groves.

Driving this route, you'll notice a quirk: the locals call it 'la strada che non finisce mai'—the road that never ends. But with proper planning, you can enjoy every mile. The key is to avoid driving between 12:00 and 14:00 when many shops close, and traffic peaks.

The landscape shifts from the rugged Ligurian coast to the rolling Tuscan hills. Near La Spezia, the road is flanked by high cliffs and the occasional view of the Gulf of Poets. Around Sarzana, you enter the Lunigiana region, known for its medieval castles and chestnut forests. After crossing into Tuscany, the famous Chianti vineyards appear, though Volterra itself is surrounded by moon-like clay hills (the Balze).

For the best stop, consider the village of Ortonovo: a 3-minute detour from SS1. It offers a panoramic viewpoint of the Apuan Alps. The Carrara marble quarries are visible on clear days. The road passes through the archaeological area of Luni, an ancient Roman colony (founded 177 BC). You can see the amphitheater ruins right from the road.

• UNESCO: No direct, but the Portovenere-Cinque Terre-Cinque Terre (just off route) is UNESCO; short detour of 20 seconds... I mean 20 minutes from La Spezia
• Local delicacies: testaroli (pasta pancake) in Pontremoli; pecorino cheese in Volterra
• Best roadside shop: Azienda Agricola Valli, km 42, sells local honey and wine

You can read more about how to find the best stops and hidden gems between cities on the Wayro blog.

Begin in La Spezia from the Piazza Europa roundabout, heading south on SS1 via Aurelia. The first 20 km are coastal, hugging the Ligurian Sea. At the town of Tellaro, the road bends inland, following the SP4 towards Sarzana. From Sarzana, the SR68 climbs gently into the Tuscan hills. Toll-free all the way.

Fuel stations are sparse between Sarzana and Volterra. Fill up at the Eni station in La Spezia (Via Fontevivo) or at the Q8 in Sarzana (Via Aurelia). Expect a 5-10% fuel economy drop due to elevation gain. The highest point is the Passo di Pradarena (but that's not on this route); here, the climb is modest, about 300 meters.

• Best fuel stop: Eni station at km 0.5 (La Spezia), open 6:00-22:00
• Intermediate fuel: Q8 in Sarzana at km 18, self-service 24h
• Last fuel before Volterra: Agip in San Miniato, detour of 5 km
• Estimated fuel cost: €11 at current rates

Road quality on SS1 is good but narrow in parts. Near La Spezia, watch for pedestrians. The SP4 has some potholes; drive slowly. Night illumination is present only in urban areas; outside towns, the road is dark. Use high beams wisely.

Fatigue management: The best rest stop is the 'Parcheggio di Luni' (km 15), with a small park and benches. Another good spot is the 'Area Sosta Montedivalli' (km 30), which has a picnic table and a magnificent view. Safety tip: Police regularly check speed on the descent into Volterra.

• Child-friendly: Parco di Villa Marigola (Lerici) with playground, 5 min detour; also Museo di Storia Naturale in Sarzana
• Pet-friendly: Bar del Porto in La Spezia allows dogs; the park at Luni is pet-friendly
• Hidden off-route: Abandoned church of Sant'Andrea (km 25, off SP4), just 2 min walk; also the ghost village of Rocca Sigillina