Kampong Chhnang to Pursat Road Trip Guide

This 94-kilometer route along National Highway 5 connects two of Cambodia's most storied river towns. Kampong Chhnang, famed as the 'Port of Pottery,' sits where the Tonlé Sap lake empties into the floodplain; Pursat, meanwhile, is renowned for its marble-carving tradition and the nearby Cardamom Mountains.

Drivers usually complete the trip in under two hours, but the journey rewards those who linger. The highway is well-maintained asphalt that follows the pilgrimage route to Angkor, and nearly every kilometer offers a glimpse into the rural Khmer heartland.

Immediately west of Kampong Chhnang, the road edges a mosaic of flooded rice paddies and lotus farms—a scene typical of the Tonlé Sap basin. In the lowlands, giant Mekong perch restaurants appear on stilts, catering to Sunday crowds from Phnom Penh.

As you near Pursat province, the Cardamom foothills rise abruptly, their forested slopes sheltering the remote O'Som waterfall. To explore it, take the turn-off at Krakor (about 25 kilometers before Pursat) and follow a dirt track for 20 minutes; the final walk through bamboo groves is steep but rewarded with a cool basin.

Commerce thrives in the roadside stalls, especially between the 30 and 70 kilometer marks, where palm sugar cakes, dried fish, and hand-woven mats are sold. The ancient pagoda of Wat Kampong Luong, just off the highway at kilometer 28, shows a rustic wood structure built atop a former moat—a rare surviving example of mid-20th-century Khmer vernacular architecture.

The only UNESCO World Heritage Site in the vicinity is not on this route itself; however, the former capital of Oudong, 40 kilometers south, merits a detour if you have extra time. Its hilltop stupas and royal tombs are worth the hour round-trip.

Fuel stations cluster around Kampong Chhnang town and again at the outskirts of Pursat; a notable Caltex at the 45-kilometer mark serves as a mid-way checkpoint. Respect the 60 km/h limit through village zones, where livestock and motorbikes appear without warning.

The road is part of the Asian Highway Network's AH11, linking Phnom Penh to Poipet. Tolls are nil, but occasional police checkpoints—especially near district boundaries—require slowing down for a visual check.

Parking is easy at most stops, though temple and market car parks may charge informal fees of 1,000–2,000 riel. Bring exact change since many keepers lack mobile payment.

• Drive time: 1h45min (non-stop)
• Road condition: good asphalt, some sections marked for repair
• Key junctions: Khnar Phnum (sand quarry turn-off) and Veal Vong market

Though Highway 5 is wide and sealed, watch for overtaking trucks from both directions, especially at the narrow bridge over the Stung Pursat river. Late-afternoon rains—common from May to October—can reduce traction on slick asphalt, so keep a safe following distance.

Rest zones are scarce between towns but appear at state-run fuel complexes. A safer bet is the picnic grounds at the Chhnok Tru lake ferry landing, where boat traffic and floating villages offer a fascinating 15-minute stretch. For children, this is the top stop: families can safely view the lake and buy fresh coconut drinks.

Traveling with pets is uncommon in Cambodia, but a few lakeside restaurants will tolerate well-behaved dogs on patios if kept on a leash. The Khmer word for 'friendly to dogs' is rare; better to carry a travel crate and ask ahead.

For fatigue management, alternate drivers at the Veal Vong market stop—a covered market with strong coffee and grilled skewers—or nap in the shade of a wat's tamarind trees. Neither location has official restrooms, but monks usually permit respectful use of the facility.

For a deeper guide on finding how to find the best stops and hidden gems between cities, consult our companion article.