Hualien to Keelung Drive: Stops, Safety & Hidden Gems

The drive from Hualien to Keelung along the Suhua Highway (Provincial Highway 9) is one of Taiwan's most scenic routes, but it's also a feat of engineering. The section between Heping and Chongde hugs the Pacific with the Qingshui Cliff—a 21-kilometer stretch of sheer marble drop-offs that plunge directly into the sea. The highway was notoriously narrow and accident-prone until the 2020 opening of the 12.6-km Guanyin and Gufeng tunnels, which now carry most traffic but bypass the most dramatic ocean views.

For driving time, the how long to drive Hualien to Keelung is roughly 3.5 to 4 hours without stops, covering about 180 kilometers. However, is it worth driving Hualien to Keelung is a resounding yes, because the route also offers historic railway tunnels, hot springs, and mountain tea plantations just a short detour off the main highway.

The Suhua Highway is prone to rockfalls and landslides during heavy rain, so check the weather forecast and road closure alerts via the 1968 app before departure. The infrastructure is generally good, but the old sections are narrow with no shoulders—pull over at designated areas only.

For families, the Heping Amusement Park (a small play area) is a good stretch, but the highlight is the Dajingshan Observation Deck, which has a playground and vending machines. Pets are welcome at outdoor viewpoints as long as they're leashed, but they are not allowed in visitor centers or on shuttle buses.

To combat fatigue, the official rest stops are at Qingshui Cliff (1.5 km from the viewpoint) and Su'ao, each with convenience stores and picnic areas. A hidden off-route spot is the Old Suhua Highway tunnel walkway—an abandoned tunnel converted to a cycling path, located near the Heping tunnel's south entrance.

Climate conditions vary: the north is often overcast and cooler even in summer, while the central section is sunny but humid. The ocean-facing road offers intermittent shade from tunnels, making summer drives manageable but daylight driving is advised.

The best stops Hualien to Keelung include the Qingshui Cliff itself, where the Pacific meets the Central Range. The area is not a UNESCO World Heritage Site (Taiwan has no official sites), but it's often compared to the cliffs of Okinawa. Further north, the 70-meter tall Nanfang'ao Bridge is a cable-stayed bridge famous for its rainbow lighting at dusk.

In Heping, a small village, you can buy fresh seafood directly off fishing boats. The local commerce is centered around the harbor, where fish-drying racks are a common sight. At the Suhua Highway's midpoint, Taroko National Park's eastern entrance is a gateway to marble canyons, but that's an off-route option.

Culinary Infrastructure

Lunch spots are clustered at Qingshui Cliff's visitor center and Su'ao's fishing port. Su'ao is famous for its fresh squid and shrimp, while Nan'ao offers indigenous Atayal cuisine, particularly bamboo tube rice. For coffee, a roadside café at the 133.5 km mark is popular with bikers.

Fuel stations are sparse between Hualien and Su'ao, so fill up before leaving Hualien or at the Nan'ao township station. Cash is accepted everywhere, but card payments are becoming common at major chains. The highway is well-marked with Chinese and English signs, and the speed limit varies from 60 km/h on cliff sections to 80 km/h on newer stretches.

• Highway 9 is the main route; an alternate is the old Suhua Highway (Provincial Highway 9D) which is narrower and slower but offers vintage views.
• Road tolls: there are no tolls on Provincial Highway 9, but the nearby Chiang Wei-shui Memorial Freeway (National Highway 5) charges a fee—you'll cross it only if you skip to the north.
• Restrooms are available at the Qingshui Cliff viewing platforms and Su'ao harbor, but the stretch from Nan'ao to Heping has no facilities—plan ahead.