Girdwood to Cordova Drive: Scenic Route Guide

While most visitors to Alaska stick to the Seward Highway, those who turn east onto the Portage Glacier Road begin a journey that few tourists attempt: the drive from Girdwood to Cordova. This route, which includes the Anton Anderson Memorial Tunnel, a shared-use railway tunnel carved through Maynard Mountain, takes you through the heart of the Chugach National Forest and culminates in a town accessible only by air or water—except for this road, which ends at the ferry terminal in Cordova.

Safety is paramount on this remote drive. The weather can change quickly, with heavy rain and fog common even in summer. Tire chains are recommended if you're driving in early spring or late fall, as snow may still cover the higher elevations. Cell service is almost non-existent, so carry a satellite phone or personal locator beacon. The road is not patrolled regularly, so drive with caution, especially around sharp curves and, if you're driving an R.V., avoid high winds near the bridges that can cause sway.

Families with children will find unique experiences: the Begich, Boggs Visitor Center is educational with glaciers, and the Cordova Historical Museum has interesting exhibits on the 1964 earthquake that reshaped the region. For kids to stretch their legs, there are short boardwalks at the Portage Glacier and at the Copper River Delta, but be cautious about wildlife—keep food packed away and maintain a distance from bears.

Fatigue management is crucial. The drive itself is not long, but the mental strain of navigating a remote road can be tiring. Plan to stop at the Portage Glacier Visitor Center (restrooms available) and at the Mile 36 pullout, where you'll find picnic tables and views of the Copper River. In Cordova, rest at the Cordova Hotel or the Reluctant Fisherman Inn, both with comfortable amenities. Since this is an out-and-back drive, you must return the same way unless you take the ferry from Cordova to Whittier, which connects back to the road system.

This route is a showcase of Alaskan wildness. You'll pass through the Chugach National Forest, home to the Portage Glacier and the Begich, Boggs Visitor Center, where you can see icebergs calving into Portage Lake. The landscape transitions from temperate rainforest to the vast wetlands of the Copper River Delta, a critical habitat for migratory birds and the world's largest contiguous delta. In the fall, the delta is filled with salmon spawning, attracting bears and eagles.

While small communities along the way are rare, you'll encounter seasonal fishing camps and rustic lodges. In Cordova, the local economy revolves around fishing, with the Copper River salmon being world-famous. You can visit the Cordova Chamber of Commerce for local tips, or the Ilanka Cultural Center to learn about the Native Eyak people, who have inhabited the area for thousands of years. For a unique culinary stop, try the how to find the best stops and hidden gems between cities guide, but locally, the Alaskan Pasta Company offers fresh seafood dishes.

The drive begins in Girdwood, where you'll turn onto the Portage Glacier Road (AK-1) and head east. After about 5 miles, you encounter the Anton Anderson Memorial Tunnel, which is the longest combined rail and highway tunnel in North America at 2.5 miles long. It operates on a schedule, with traffic alternating directions, so check the live tunnel schedule before you go. The tunnel fee is $13 for a round trip (as of 2023). Once through, you'll drive along the Copper River Highway (part of the Alaska Route 10) for the remaining 80 miles to Cordova, passing through the vast Copper River Delta.

• Highway Numbers: Portage Glacier Road (AK-1) transitions to AK-10 after the tunnel.
• No gas stations between Girdwood and Cordova—fill up in Girdwood or take extra fuel.
• Gates on the road to Cordova might be closed due to weather or maintenance; check local announcements.

The road is mostly gravel after the 38-mile mark, but it's well-maintained. Expect narrow sections and curves, especially near rivers and bridges. The last 20 miles are particularly scenic, with views of the Copper River Delta and the Chugach Mountains.