Besançon to Nîmes Road Trip: A Deep Dive into the Rhône Valley

Did you know that the stretch of the A39 between Besançon and Bourg-en-Bresse was once a Roman road connecting the provinces of Gallia Lugdunensis and Gallia Narbonensis? Today, this route carries you from the citadel of timepieces to the heart of the Gard valley. The drive covers 402 km via A39 and A9, typically taking 3 hours 50 minutes without stops. But to rush is to miss the sweeping vineyards of the Jura, the Saône river bends, and the lavender fields near Nîmes.

This guide answers key questions: how to find the best stops and hidden gems between cities, whether the drive is worth it (absolutely), and how to optimize your time.

The A39 and A9 are well-maintained, with illuminated sections near exits. The A39 has variable speed limits (130 km/h dry, 110 km/h wet) due to some sharp curves near Poligny. The A9 south of Orange can be windy (Mistral wind gusts up to 100 km/h) – reduce speed and hold the wheel firmly.

• Pet-friendly stop: Aire de la Savoureuse (A39) has a dedicated dog park and shaded walking path.
• Family stop: Cap'Découverte (near Carmaux, off A9) – an interactive mining museum with a children's playground.
• Rest zones for nap: Aire de l'Ain (A40) – quiet, shaded, with clean toilets and picnic tables.

For fatigue management, plan a break every 2 hours. Ideal midpoint: the Aire de Dombes (A40) – a large rest area with a cafeteria. If you need a longer rest, the hotel 'Ibis Budget Bourg-en-Sud' exits directly onto the A40.

The journey begins on the A39 south from Besançon, passing through lush Jura foothills. At Bourg-en-Bresse, merge onto the A40 toward Lyon, then switch to the A6 south through Mâcon. Near Lyon, take the A46 bypass to avoid city traffic, then join the A7 toward Avignon. Finally, at Orange, transfer to the A9 west to Nîmes. This path avoids Lyon's congestion and offers smoother flow.

• Exit 4 (A39): Poligny – ideal for a coffee break at the Jura Wine Route visitor center.
• Exit 27 (A40): Vonnas – home to the Michelin-starred Georges Blanc restaurant for a splurge.
• Exit 8 (A9): Remoulins – gateway to the Pont du Gard. Drive time from exit to monument: 10 minutes.

Fuel stations are abundant along the highways, with Total and Shell at most rest areas. For budget-conscious travelers, fill up at Leclerc stations off exits (e.g., at Lons-le-Saunier). The A9 stretch has higher fuel density but also higher prices near Orange.

As you descend from Besançon's 300m altitude to Nîmes's 50m, the landscape transforms. The Jura's limestone cliffs and pine forests give way to the Saône's flat floodplains, then the Rhône's vineyard-covered alluvial fans. Near Orange, you'll encounter the iconic garrique scrubland – wild thyme, lavender, and olive trees.

• Jura wine region: Château-Chalon appellation. Stop at a caveau in Arlay for a tasting of the famous vin jaune.
• Bresse poultry: At Restarea 'La Bresse' on A40, pick up a poulet de Bresse label rouge from a roadside stand.
• Provence markets: In Nîmes, the Les Halles market offers tapenades, cheeses, and the local pélardon.

The route passes directly by the UNESCO-listed Pont du Gard (a short detour at Remoulins). This Roman aqueduct bridge is breathtaking at sunset. Another UNESCO site, the Historic Fortified City of Carcassonne, is a 1.5-hour detour from Nîmes but worth considering for an extended trip.

For a genuine local experience, visit the farmers' market in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence (30 min from Nîmes) for honey and lavender sachets.