Beaune to Colmar Road Trip: Ultimate Guide to the Alsace Wine Route

Did you know that the A36 highway between Beaune and Colmar follows the ancient Roman road Via Agrippa, connecting the Rhône to the Rhine? This 150-kilometer route passes through the historic Saône river valley and the foothills of the Vosges Mountains. With an average driving time of 1 hour 45 minutes without stops, the journey offers a rich tapestry of landscapes and culture.

For a deeper understanding of how to uncover the best stops and hidden gems between cities, check out how to find the best stops and hidden gems between cities. This guide will help you go beyond the highway and explore the authentic heart of the region.

The geographical shift from Burgundy to Alsace is dramatic. Leaving Beaune, you traverse the rolling Côte d'Or vineyards, a UNESCO World Heritage site known for its Grand Cru slopes. As you near Dijon, the landscape opens into the Saône floodplains, dotted with poplar groves and grazing Charolais cattle. The route then climbs gently into the Jura foothills, where limestone escarpments give way to fir forests ahead of Colmar.

• Natural Attractions: The A36 passes the Parc Naturel Régional du Haut-Jura, visible to the south near Saint-Claude. For a short detour, exit at Dole to see the cascades of the Doubs River.
• UNESCO Sites: The Royal Saltworks of Arc-et-Senans (Saline Royale) is a short 15-minute detour from the A36 at exit 5.1, a masterpiece of 18th-century industrial architecture and a designated World Heritage site.
• Local Commerce: Stop at the Marché de Dijon on Saturdays for Burgundy specialties – mustard, gingerbread (pain d'épices), and crème de cassis. In Alsace, look for kugelhopf, choucroute, and local wines at roadside stalls near Colmar.

Just 5 minutes off the A36 at exit 7, the village of Ornans offers the birthplace of Gustave Courbet and the stunning valley of the Loue River. The abandoned 19th-century flour mill near Montgesoye is a photographic treasure. For a more obscure stop, seek the Chapelle de la Chaux (exit 3), a tiny Baroque chapel hidden in a forest clearing.

• Roadside Eateries: Le Relais de la Saône (Aire de la Saône, km 100) serves traditional boeuf bourguignon and escargots. In Besançon, Chez Cuisine offers regional sausage and Comté cheese. Near Colmar, Auberge de la Tête de Cuir at the Route des Vins specializes in tarte flambée.
• Traditional Breweries & Bakeries: The village of Marnay (exit 5) hosts a family-run bakery making pain au levain and galettes comtoises. For beer lovers, the Brasserie du Jura in Saint-Lothain offers tastings of artisanal ale.

The trip is most scenic in late September, when the vineyards turn gold and the Vosges show autumn colors. Summer temperatures average 25°C, but the Saône valley can be hazy. Winter brings snow to the Jura, making the A36 near Besançon prone to slush – drive with winter tires from November to March.

• Wind Patterns: The A36 is exposed in the Saône valley, with crosswinds common in spring. Slow down to 90 km/h when wind warnings are posted.
• Sunset Spot: The viewpoint at Mont de Pouilly (exit 6) offers a panoramic view of the vineyards at dusk, perfect for a brief stop (10 minutes from the highway).

The primary artery for this trip is the A36 autoroute, a well-maintained toll road with excellent signage. From Beaune, take the A31 north to Dijon, then merge onto the A38 towards Besançon. Continue on the A36 east to the A36-E60 junction, then follow the A36/E60 into the heart of Alsace. The route is predominantly flat through the Saône valley before rising gently into the Vosges foothills near Colmar.

• Fuel Distribution: Service stations every 30–40 km along the A36, including major stops at Arc-et-Senans (Aire de la Saline) and Mulhouse. Expect prices to be slightly higher on the autoroute than in towns.
• Toll Costs: Total toll for a standard car is approximately €18.50, payable by credit card or cash at automated booths. The segment from Beaune to Dijon is free (A31).
• Fuel Efficiency Tip: The flat terrain of the Saône valley offers optimal fuel economy – maintain a steady 110 km/h to save up to 15% fuel compared to 130 km/h.

The A36 is a modern, well-lit autoroute with a hard shoulder and emergency telephones every 2 km. Road surfaces are generally excellent, but watch for fog in the Saône valley during autumn mornings. Wildlife crossings are rare, but deer may appear near forested sections near Besançon. Always keep a reflective vest and warning triangle in the car.

• Family Stops: The Aire de la Saline (km 120) has a playground, picnic tables, and a small museum about the saltworks. In Besançon, the Citadelle offers a zoo and interactive history exhibits. Near Mulhouse, the Cité du Train is Europe's largest railway museum, perfect for kids.
• Pet-Friendly Spots: Many rest areas (aires) have designated dog-walking zones with waste bags. The Aire de Montbéliard (km 90) includes a fenced dog park. In Colmar, the Parc du Champ de Mars welcomes leashed dogs.
• Fatigue Management: For a nap, safely pull into an official rest area like Aire de la Lisse (km 150) with shaded parking. Alternatively, use the secure parking at the Besançon Viotte train station (€5/day) and rest in the station lounge.